Around 3 AM it starts to rain in Hyder and
doesn’t let up until the afternoon.
It is a drive day but this is a
campground with neither sewers nor a dump station. We hook up our rigs and proceed around 8 AM
to the cross-border town of Stewart in British Columbia, where there is a
public dump station. I guess I must be
groggy because when the Canadian border official checks our passports I
anticipate the usual questions and say we are crossing to use their dump
station. In retrospect I should have said something like "shopping" but he smiles, wishes me a good day, and we go dump and move on.
We drive north past a couple glaciers
and a stretch where contractors are removing avalanche debris, and pass a place
with tents where people are collecting mushrooms. For the next few miles we encounter more
tents and permanent buildings, these with temporary signs identifying the
occupants as traveling mushroom buyers.
We understand the locals don’t consider mushrooms much of a delicacy but
they do grow abundantly here, and can be sold at a very nice price, frequently
ending up overseas.
Heading east, we detour slightly to
visit a native area known for a collection of historic totem poles. The totems are very visible from the
road. We pull in to a dirt lot and Larry
and I walk through the rain toward what looks like a visitor center or
museum. It is posted “closed” but a sign
requests $5 for the privilege of photographing the totems. We go back to the cars, dodge a wet and bedraggled
dog, and continue east, to Smithers BC.
(For you Simpsons fans, Smithers is a few miles from Burns Lake.)
Smithers is, for us, civilization; our
campground is actually at a golf course.
The caravan is ending in one more stop.
For some it is most welcome, for the rest, it is simply time. Gary and Sharon have run into major problems
with their 2004 GMC diesel. Their truck
and trailer had to be towed the last 15 miles and is now sitting at the
Smithers GMC dealer awaiting evaluation, and it will be expensive. Loud banging noise followed by total loss of
power and no compression in half the cylinders.
[Later we hear he had to have a rebuilt engine installed. The only consolation is that this happened on
the next-to-last stop and in a comparatively urban area.]
Paul and Kathy, also GMC owners, rejoin
us at Smithers after a two-day detour to a dealer because their urea sensor
wasn’t working. On modern diesels
(fortunately, more modern than our 2005) urea – yes, urea – must be added to
the engine periodically for pollution control reasons. If you don’t do
it the engine limits your speed and eventually shuts you down. In Paul’s case nothing he did could convince
the sensor it had enough urea so he had to get to a dealer before it stopped. Within a few more days he also had an EGR
problem.
David and Judy also have a GMC diesel requiring
urea and had a check-engine light come on.
They are heading for the Smithers dealer in the morning just to be
cautious. [They, too, had to have work
done, and I believe it was pollution and urea related.]