Today we take a 6-hour catamaran ride to a couple of fjords in
Resurrection bay at Seward, part of the Kenai Fjords National Park.
We are warned there is some open sea so a number of us take
Bonine, sold OTC as a non-drowsy improvement on Dramamine. It works in my case, or the seas just aren’t
consistently that tough, but a handful of the group has a miserable time, and
many felt drowsy from the Bonine.
Unlike on the Whittier tour the narration here is clear, and
we have a good day. Spotted are numerous
puffins, bald eagles, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, orcas, common murre
dolphins, seagulls (of course) and humpback whales, one of which surfaces and
dives about a body’s width from the port bow (see separate post).
The captain takes us fairly close to one 400’ tall glacier
and voices hush. Waterfalls
and fire-hydrant-like blasts of water can be seen and heard coming from lower portions of
the glacier. Suddenly there is a fairly
loud animal-like growl lasting a few seconds but nothing happens, no
calving. Random lesser sounds continue
and we wait expectantly but after a half-hour the captain gives it up and we
leave, consoled by the humpback whale that surfaced so close.
Afterwards, Marcia and I drive to a trailhead for a 1-mile
hike to the Exit glacier, so named because in the days of exploration (not terribly long ago) this
glacier was considered the best exit from the Harding ice fields. The Harding ice fields spawn over 40 glaciers
and cover hundreds of miles.
This is a pleasant and easy hike and as we ascend we learn
that the signs we’ve been seeing for at least a mile on the road and trail show
how far the glacier used to extend. Our
only hiking disappointment: you aren’t allowed within maybe 50 feet of the
glacier, and it is retreating fast. OK,
maybe not that fast but it is out of reach on the other side of a drainage
area.
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